With more than 500 events over eleven days of celebrations, navigating the Santa Tecla programme can be a challenging task for those who are new to the festive universe of Tarragona. That’s why we’re offering a brief guide to the ten essential experiences for enjoying Santa Tecla to the full, plus ten alternative options for those looking for something a little different, or who simply want to escape the crowds.
The festival of Santa Tecla, which has been declared of National Tourist Interest by Spain and a Heritage Festival of National Interest by the Government of Catalonia, has been held in Tarragona since the fourteenth century and offers a unique opportunity to get to know the city and, above all, its people. Get your festival T-shirt ready, put on some comfy shoes, pop a hat on your head to protect you from the sun and the sparks from the fires, and let’s go!
- Eat like a real Santa Tecla aficionado
A true follower of Santa Tecla (teclero) can be identified by what they eat as well! The quintessential dish is espineta amb cargolins (tuna stew with snails), which is the breakfast of choice for tecleros on the morning of 23 September. And for dessert? Obviously, Braç de Santa Tecla (Santa Tecla’s Arm), but in the form of a cake. This popular treat is made to order by many of the city’s bakeries on the afternoon of 20 September.
Don’t fancy the look of the espineta? Don’t worry, during Santa Tecla you’ll find as many gastronomic options as there are different tastes. Days such as the first Saturday of the festivities are full of tasting sessions which will take your taste-buds on a fascinating journey, and the Tecla Tapa is great quick dinner option during the festivities.
- Thrill to the Tableau of Santa Tecla
The best way of appreciating the figure of the patron saint of Tarragona is through the Tableau of Santa Tecla, which is performed every 20 September by the Esbart de Santa Tecla theatre group inside the Cathedral. With the audience facing away from the altar, through gestures and music they portray the most important scenes in the life, martyrdom and death of Tecla.
If you fancy something different, the programme features numerous guided tours of the Cathedral which give a closer insight into the figure of Santa Tecla and the temple that was raised in her honour. The festivities offer the perfect opportunity to rediscover Tarragona’s medieval heritage from another perspective.
- Enjoy the full procession of the Seguici Popular
A great part of the participative heart and soul of Santa Tecla can be found in the Seguici Popular (popular retinue), a long street procession comprising fire-runners, fantastical creatures, ‘spoken dances’, giants, allegorical dances, etc. The Seguici does three full processions during the two main days of the festival: on the afternoon of 22 September, the Anada i Tornada a Ofici (Round Trip) on the morning of 23 September, and another procession on the afternoon of 23 September. There can be no more traditional spot to enjoy the procession than on the steps of Plaça de les Cols, but make sure you set aside at least two hours to watch the full procession.
Are you short of time, or perhaps you don’t like crowds? The procession route offers many less crowded options and some where you have the chance to watch it from a different perspective or catch a one-off dance being performed or other off-programme events. If you don’t mind getting up early, the Anada a Ofici procession on 23 September is the perfect time to see the Seguici away from the crowds and offers some great photo opportunities.
- Experience the Baixada de l’Àliga (Descent of the Eagle)
On the night of 21 September, a number of fantastical creatures and giants perform a double descent from the Cathedral to Plaça del Rei and as far as Plaça de la Font. To really experience it to the utmost you need to join the descent crew of a particular element and wait your turn to enjoy the unique opportunity to carry them. If you’re interested, the best thing is to ask the advice of an experienced local resident to help you get fully involved, but be sure to always respect the elements and their bearers.
Is the madness of the Baixada a little too much for you? You can enjoy it from a safe distance at points such as Plaça del Fòrum or, even better, during the second Baixada from Plaça del Rei to Plaça de la Font. Or if you’d rather watch the processional characters in daylight hours, the fifteen minutes before each departure are preceded by a short performance in Plaça de la Font.
- Be amazed by the castells (human towers)
A city with such a long-standing human tower building tradition as Tarragona can hardly ignore its colles castelleres (tower-building teams) during its most important annual festivity. For this reason, Santa Tecla features two of the most important casteller sessions of the year: the first Sunday of the festivities (with two guest colles from outside the city), and on the day of Santa Tecla itself, featuring four local colles. Your Santa Tecla experience will not be complete until you have marvelled at a human tower building session in Plaça de la Font, perhaps with a local aperitif in your hand!
Are you looking for a more intimate experience of human tower building? During the festivities, all the colles offer open rehearsals at their headquarters, free of charge and with no need to book in advance, so you can appreciate how they get ready for this red letter day in their diaries.
- Laugh at the annual Dames i Vells revue
Satire is an indispensable ingredient of Santa Tecla and its ‘spoken dances’ are responsible for keeping it alive year after year. The must-see revue is one of the performances by the Dames i Vells (Ladies and Old Men) on 22, 23 and 24 September, a searing review of current affairs that puts more than one person in their place!
The popularity of Dames i Vells means that it is sometimes difficult to get a good place from which to see them. Don’t worry, though, as the sardonic fun permeates the rest of the city, and on 22 and 23 September you can laugh along with the satirical utterances at the Ball de Diables (Devils’ Dance), Ball d’en Serrallonga (Serrallonga Dance), Ball de Gitanes (Gypsies’ Dance) and Ball de Pastorets (Shepherds’ Dance). They may be less well known, but they’re equally caustic and unabashed.
- Dance until sunrise on the nights of 22 and 23 September
Forget about sleeping on the Eve of Santa Tecla and choose from a number of different nightlife options around the city during what are possibly the liveliest hours of the year in Tarragona. When the sun begins to rise, the sound of the gralles (a native Catalan double-reed wind instrument) playing the matinades (matins) will keep you company. And if you really want to do it all, round off the experience with the early-morning departure of the Seguici procession on 23 September and a hearty Tarragona-style breakfast.
If you’re not willing to give up a good night’s sleep, no problem. The Santa Tecla programme offers numerous musical events at more sleep-friendly times so you can fully experience Santa Tecla by night.
- Thrill to the climax of the Entrada del Braç
This is the climax of the festivities and the one that arouses the strongest emotions in the people of Tarragona. The afternoon procession of 23 September culminates with the entrance of the Saint’s arm relic to the Cathedral, with the Pla de la Seu packed with all the characters in the Seguici who unite in a dance and an outburst of fireworks. The feeling of pandemonium and euphoria will raises goose-bumps on the skin of even the most insensitive individual!
Experiencing the Entrada del Braç has its downside: hours of waiting, crowds of people, and the risk of getting singed or deafened by the fireworks and cacophony of the Seguici. If you want to experience it from a more prudent distance, we recommend that you stay in Plaça de les Cols and reserve yourself a spot to experience one of the most well-loved moments of the Seguici: the descent of the staircase after the Entrada. If you’d rather watch the Entrada during the day, you’ll need to get up very early and head there on the morning of 23 September to watch the processional entry of the city’s coat of arms.
- Follow the ‘walking pillars’ of La Mercè
On 24 September, the four local colles raise a pillar, or human tower, of four castellers which ascend and descend the Cathedral steps and then go down the steep Carrer Major to the City Hall balcony. You can enjoy the whole show from Plaça de les Cols, accompanying (at a safe distance) one of the pillars to the end of its route.
With so much festive fun going on, how can you resist another human tower building session? In Plaça de la Font, at midday on 24 September, you can enjoy a delicious glass of vermouth while waiting for the arrival of the four walking pillars. We promise that the climb of each enxaneta (the little child who tops the human towers) to the City Hall balcony is a scene you will never forget.
- Run the fire route
At midnight on 24 September, Tarragona gets ready to say goodbye to Santa Tecla as only Tarragona knows how: in an orgy of fire, with the traditional correfoc (fire run) and the final icing on the cake: the route that runs along Rambla Nova to the Balcony of the Mediterranean. The full fire run starts with an explosive burst at the Statue of Els Despullats and heads up the Rambla to the cacophony of fire-spitting devils and dragons.
Would you rather keep the devils at a distance? Once the correfoc has passed by, find a spot close to the Balcony of the Mediterranean and wait for the final spectacular firework display and the lighting of the Visca Santa Tecla message. And if you feel a momentary sadness as Santa Tecla draws to a close, don’t worry; there is less than a year left for everything to start all over again!
Get ready for your Santa Tecla 2019 experience by checking out the comprehensive festival programme.
We are set in the Rome of the 70dc, which is bursting with excitement by the news coming from the overseas. Titus Flavius Vespasian, the Emperor Vespasian’s son, has beaten, after seven years of war, the so-called revolt of the Jews. After this triumph, he devastates and plunders the second temple of Jerusalem, and in its place he installs the Legio X Fretensis headquarters. There is honour and money for the needing coffers of the Empire’s capital. With their work done, the accomplishment and the highest honours, Titus Flavius sails from Alexandria to Rome where his father prepares a godly welcome.
Those of you who will be in Tarragona’s amphitheatre on Friday the 5th or Saturday the 6th of August will be able to enjoy a live show related to the historical re-enactment of ‘A Triumph in Rome: The celebration of a military victory‘ which is going to be starred by local groups as Projecte Phoenix, Nemesis Arq and Thaleia accompanied by the principal research music group, the Italian Ludi Scaenici. ‘A triumph in Rome‘ is the main novelty and the highlight of this edition of Tarragona Living History.
But what was the Triumph about? The Triumph was the solemn arrival of a victorious general in Rome, who wanted the country to reward their efforts, recognize and prize their achievements. It is itself a religious festival, an official act of thanksgiving to the Maximum Optimal Jupiter winner, the patron of the city.
However, the survival of this triumph is still alive in our culture. Isn’t Barça’s parade a triumph, when it wins the Champions League? Even the popular procession of Santa Tecla’s festivities is an evolution of the Roman triumph.
Did you know that there is a documented list of triumphs, from the archaic age until the 19 BC?. This list, called fasti Triumphalis, was exposed to the travellers on one of the walls of the region (Maximum Pontiff’s home). The list is still being preserved today in the current Palace of the Conservatives at the Capitoline Museums of Rome.
The triumphal parade (the pump):
What was it like, the triumphal pomp? Did it follow any guidelines at all?
On the day agreed by the Senate or the Emperor, the victorious general, who had been waiting (sometimes for months) at Campus Martius with his army, entered Rome which had been embellished with all the traditional ceremony’s elements. The parade began entering Rome by the so-called Triumphalis door, the position of which is unknown, but that would probably be the oldest door in the city. Then the procession continued to the Circus Flaminius, Boari Forum, the Circus Maximus, the Via Sacra, crossing the Roman Forum and ended up at the Capitol in front of the temple of Jupiter.
Every single spot in the city: the streets and squares, were decorated with garlands, the temples were open and all the platforms raised towards the sky, clambered by columns of incense.
The Delegation was headed by many senators and judges who were representing the Senate and Rome’s inhabitants, who thus followed a band of trumpets. Then, there came the wagons –carrying spoils and the booty taken from the enemy–. This demonstration of strength and power was accompanied by banners with a list of the cities and territories which had been conquered, followed by wreaths bearers and gold bidders offered to kings and peoples allies.
The following Command in the parade were the bulls and animals which had to be slaughtered. Bulls should be white or with a white spot on their heads. They wore golden horns and a triangle representing an eagle, the Jupiter’s symbol. And, after the animals, there were the enemy leaders and other prisoners who, once arrived at the Capitol, were executed the first ones, and sold as slaves the second ones.
Then there came the lictors with the fasces, the vase bearers, some ‘pebeters’ with their perfumes, and musicians, who preceded the car of the winner –drawn by four white horses–. This one was dressed up in palmate tunic (a purple tunic with golden palm patterns) and the toga picta (a golden geometric gown with stars). On their heads, they wore a laurel wreath (the symbol of Mars) on their left hands, they carried a branch of laurel, and on their right hands a sceptre with an eagle, the symbol of Jupiter. Their faces and hands were painted orange, after the colour of the original terracotta statue of Jupiter and the immortal’s colour. All this was known as the ‘’ornatus jovis’’ or as the ‘’ornatus triumpahlis’’; and once the pump was returned to the temple of Jupiter, it was safely kept.
The soldiers closed the pump with its distinctive decorations and laurel wreaths on their heads. The legionnaires went on shouting: Io triumphe! (Here the victory!).
Once the pump was over at the Capitol, the victor sacrificed the victims (bulls) and then a banquet was offered to their guests, one for the senators and magistrates, and another for their soldiers, friends and the inhabitants in general. While the festival initially lasted one day, to increase the spoils of the war, the victor could extend general celebrations.
The victory that will be recreated on the 5th and the 6th of August at Tarragona’s amphitheatre does not refer to anything in particular, although a large part has been taken from the Arc de Triomphe –built in honour to the emperor Titus for his victory over the Jews and the texts of Flavi Josep (“The Jews’ war”)–. Will you dare to miss it?
PROGRAM OF TARRAGONA HISTÒRIA VIVA
From the bar to the street, from the theatre to the community centre, from the Part Alta to the Serrallo; not a single place in Tarragona can avoid to get moving at the sound of Dixieland Festival, the city’s spring symphony. On the way to its 20th edition, the show has found some fertile basis on the party personality of Tarragona, as well as bringing an entire generation of local musicians the chance of taking centre stage. Raül Cid, Stromboli Jazz Band’s vocalist and trombonist, is living these days a true jazz musician’s dream. Dixieland Festival is written by means of names like his.
Raül had already showing huge devotion for BB King, Percy Sledge or Aretha Franklin, but it was when first watching Dixieland Festival in Tarragona, as a young boy, that he knew exactly who he’d like to become. From that moment, he has put all the effort, talent and character in the service of the score. After performing for thirteen years on an emblematic local musical training, Small River, Raül and a group of friends set up the Stromboli Jazz Band, style and musical attitude in continuous eruption.
Attitude, yes; because not all music will necessary sound properly, says Raül. “Dixie is popular jazz music, a kind of festival conjunction, and Tarragona likes to have fun. Of course, this music style does particularly allow everything you have inside as a performer to flow out. If you feel cool and tuned, chemistry works, and people will enjoy that. On the other hand though, if you are on a bad mood with yourself or the rest of the band, nothing will work and it’ll be harder to connect with the public”, explains using pedagogy.
And this is actually what Hot Jazz is all about; colour at the rhythm of brass and improvisation, a style that derives from classic standards, but also able of integrating, recycling and becoming enriched with new popular music models, just like the Stromboli music band did with Star Wars.
Dixieland’s sound was born about a century ago by the Mississippi, but it soon settled in Tarragona, where artists such as Chic Corea, Bebo Valdés or the Dirty Dozen Brass Band have left a mark. Despite this being the only festival specialized of this kind in Spain, and one of the very few ones in Europe, it also gathers other music genres on its programme; from modern jazz to flamenco, to swing, bebop, funky, soul and blues, which comes to define a rich and varied soundtrack.
In a period of budget containment, fame on this year’s edition, April 7-13, will be split between a bunch of musicians in good shape, such as Randy Greer, Perico Sambeat and Llibert Fortuny, or Joan Chamorro and Andrea Motis, but it will also count on a number of local bands such as Pixidixi Band, Feos, Diximania or the above mentioned Stromboli or Small River, which will keep standards very high indeed by means of their effort, rigour and passion.
For them, the festival is not just a mere celebration but the best possible way of professional advertising. In a moment of general greyness, Raül Cid does not miss a beat and points at Dixie as the light in the dark: “People need good vibes and Dixie passes some on”. Music, people say, soothes the savage beast and, sometimes, can even make it dance.
(We’d like to thank Peter Martínez, the emblematic Cal Peter owner, and Montse Adán.)